Fashion History - England

24 June 2015
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_{"Fashion is instant language."
-Miuccia Prada}

Sorry for the wait but here's the next set in my Hetalia Fashion History series. I probably should have had this done sooner, but I'm a slacker.
I was originally working on fem!China, actually, but it's really hard to find resources that I could actually read (I just need enough to verify things, y'know). Since I already had the basics down for the England and America I thought that while doing research on the other nations I could easily finish up those too sets, so here's I am with more English clothing.

Overall it was less of a pain-in-the-ass than previously, thanks to less in the way of pimped out dresses. Except for those Elizabethans. Because they apparently make everything difficult. I spent three days just trying to figure on what colours he should wear while still being appropriate for the era. Then gave up. Then came back and just coloured whatever was already there forgetting whether I actually settled on it or not. Too late now.

Also, as to the flag, I have reasons why I used the ones I did. I understand that England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland are all separate with their own flags apart from the Union Jack. But here I'm following Himaruya's lead in using the Union Jack in for eras it existed in instead of the English flag, mostly for canon consistency, but also because of Iggy's situation as a nation-tan and which entities he often represents.

As per usual, I love getting comments from you guys, whether they be a critique, opinions, corrections, or questions. Don't be afraid to start a discussion with me for all I care. Also, I don't really give a shit if you draw something based on these outfits. Go for it, as long as you show me 'cause I'd totally like to see it. Just remember that this wasn't designed to be resource like something out of a textbook, even if I did prioritize historical accuracy.

The various elements from the backgrounds are often stock designs and historical documents I had floating around on the computer (like era-specific newspapers, posters, literature, letters by famous persons, maps, textile and wallpaper patterns, etc). The main exceptions are the first and last items.

BE SURE TO VIEW FULLSIZE TO SEE IT IN ALL IT'S GLORY

Tumblr | Pixiv

*Beyond this point are research notes/me ranting. Either make yourself a sandwich or skip to the comments now.*

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NOTES
Himaruya

• The outfit you all should know by now if you watch Hetalia. I'm pretty positive this was originally inspired by WW2 British Army officer uniforms (A version of which I also have up here). Still, being Hetalia, it's not 100% accurate, but I suppose at least it's quickly recognizable as that type of uniform unlike some other characters who've altered their outfits so much I can't tell what exactly is going on. Complete with spellbook and Flying Mint Bunny.
• The background is a collage from the webcomics/manga overlaid with lots of stamp brushes. Stamp brushes [link][link][link][link][link]
• Song: Cup of Brown Joy (Professor Elemental)
  
• Flag: 1801-Present (Flag of the United Kingdom)

Elizabethan Era (c.1584)

• Considering how much suffering I went through last time I drew an Elizabethan-era outfit, I knew there was going to be pain. My target year being the 1580s, you get alot of crazy details going on. With men's fashion, the silhouette, which was once square at the start of the century, gained a more effeminate shape, with a "v" shaped waist and padded elements on the shoulders and hose. A man's outfit started with a white shirt, that often had frill cuffs and a the infamous ruff. These were kept bright white and starched stiff, so you had the same range of neck movement as Batman. I was considering giving him the cartwheel ruff that was so popular in 1580s, but that would be just to much for a modern viewer - a.k.a. I'm lazy and biased. Instead, pretend this ruff has lace on the edges. Over this came a long-sleeved doublet, and by this era I often see with looser sleeves, here being a buff yellow (yes, buff is a colour). After that comes the jerkin, which is basically that black waistcoat-type thing that goes over the doublet. It's not a necessary item, but the 16th century loved contrasting fabrics (often through layering of course), so gave him one in black, with the row of many close buttons that I see all the time on these things (this time in gold). You can't see it from the front, but he would also probably wear what is called a "peascod belly". It's basically padding inside your doublet that makes you look pregnant or something. All the fashionable men had them for whatever reason. Maybe this + the curves was supposed to be a subliminal message to the Queen to have a kid??? Either way, I didn't really want to draw him with an unnatural looking beer-belly (over a V-shaped waist, nonetheless!!), so I drew him from the front (because it's that unnatural looking that the rest of you would still be skinny from the front). Besides, he's got a lovely pair of paned hose, a.k.a. pumpkin pants. It's a single pair of hose, but strips of fabric, or "panes", are attached over the normal lining giving off that shape. He's wearing a matching codpiece, which I'm assuming I don't need to explain. Over-the-knee boots were also a thing back then, which needs to come back for all genders. As outerwear Iggy has a half-cape, which was fairly common in the period, often with some sort of embroidery. A feathered cap with gold elements is acceptable headgear, as well as leather gloves cut away to accommodate the stiff cuffs. It wasn't unusual for literally any article of clothing I just mentioned to be also be bedazzled with all sorts of gems or precious metals embroidered into the fabric if the person was rich enough and (probably) English (Like, I never see the Spaniards from this time sewing fucking gold into their undershirts). Jewelry was popular for anyone who could afford it, and if I wasn't so lazy I probably would have given him even more bling sewn into his hose or something. But he does have two good strings of pearls and a jeweled earring. Apparently men also wore strands of dark hair instead of earrings (is that hygienic?), but either way, it was common to have a single pierced ear. Hair could be styled short or, more fashionably, long, for men. Here I went shorter, since I want to keep hair as consistent as historically accuracy would allow, so gave him a bit more fluff to it, as long hair was outright required to be curly because: fabulous. (men had fancy special curling irons and hair waxes just for this). It was also a tough call as to whether he should have facial hair, which gained social significance and fashion sense in this century, popular styles changing from decade to decade. But many old men didn't wear beards, so make of that what you will. Finally, a sword rests on his hip, hanging from a V-shaped belt that blends in pretty well with his jerkin, since people were still carrying these around, apparently. As far as colours are concerned, this was the single most difficult thing to work on in this set. I was going to go for black and white, which were the Queen's colours (and if her favorite pirate was allowed to wear it Iggy can too!), but it just didn't work visually the way I wanted. Black was an expensive colour, and my inner goth tends to default to black anyways, so I knew that was going to be in there, but the rest was basically me mixing-and-matching until something worked (but wasn't rejected by my research). Besides, personal taste in many ways factored more into clothing back in the day than it does now (at least according to my American life experience).
  
• The background is a combination of Elizabethan textile work and the title page from "A Pilgrim's Progress". You know it's pre-19th century because of the "s" that looks like an "f".
  
• Song: Greenseelves
• Flag: 1245-Present (Flag of England)
• 1550-1600 in Western Fashion
  

Georgian Era (c.1793)

• As these outfits correspond to the fem!England set I already did, I avoided drawing a uniform from the American Revolutionary War and set it later in the 18th century. Still, you've probably figured that it's an 18th century British uniform of some sort, what with all that sniper-target lobster red. In the last decades of the 18th century, fashions became much simpler and streamlined (Baroque being replaced by Rococo, which then dwindled by this decade). Though the main elements of a man's outfit were consistent - coat, waistcoat, and breeches - the cut and style changed throughout the century. By the 1790's a sort of "pastoral" (well, what rich people thought was pastoral), was popular. It was much simpler often with natural hair and more comfortable though plain fabrics in softer or muted colours. In other countries fashions based off this more naturalistic style were often called "English style". Overall the silhouette is actually pretty soft, with curves and very few sharp angles. Starting with a white undershirt, the sleeves of a nice dress shirt is full and gathered at the wrists creating that sort of ruffled effect. Keeping them clean and white was considered important for an Englishman. With this there may be ruffling at the front of the shirt to be worn with a neckstock, as with this example (otherwise a cravat works). The waistcoat ends in a straight cut a bit below the waist. The coat is a little different thanks to it's straight collar, as many were either collarless or had a turnover collar. Otherwise the cut is common for it's era, as near the waist it cuts back in a curve - so no, don't draw these things where you can button up the front all the way down. If anything, the later in the era the less of the coat you can see from the front until it turns into a short jacket with tails tacked onto the end. These are often worn open, or if they are buttoned, only the top buttons are closed so you can still see the waistcoat, as with above. Also, jacket buttons are larger than waistcoat buttons. Next are some well-fitting breeches - which end a little below the knee and are fastened with buttons near the bottom to hold the stockings in place. He's wearing long riding boots, however, so you can't see the ends of the breeches or stockings. Now here, I went with a military uniform, so though the overall style isn't different from civilian dress as far as the main elements and cut (unlike the larger difference seen today), standardized details like colour and decorations are different. Military outfits were very specific and battle dress and formal dress weren't very different if they weren't already one-in-the-same. Bright and distinctive colour was important in earlier centuries due to how European warfare worked at the time. The "fog of war" was literal. And since neither side wanted to start stabbing their own people when the bayonets came out, they all wore the same bright colours, so at least you know you're killing the right person. And the British were famously attached to giving everyone red. Every little detail of a military outfit was very specific to exactly who you were - not only country or branch-wise, but specific regiments and ranks within specific groups could have different signifiers in colours, accessories, etc. Even the number and spacing of the goddamn buttons is meticulously adhered too in these styles of uniform. These days we just use nametags. This is based off the 1790 officer uniform of the 1st Guards. As such the jacket is mainly red, with white inside lining and gold trim. The front facing a navy blue and gold. Gold cuffs with three buttons where the edges of a dress shirt can be seen underneath. The neckstock is black with white frills of the shirt. There is also a white sash with gold decoration and a single epaulette on the right shoulder. He also wears a dark red sash under the jacket, white gloves, and carries an officer's sword. Hair is powdered (which really shows you that this is clothing for more formal settings), tied back in a queue with a black ribbon. Arthur also wears a black bicorn with cockade (the bow-thingy). Cockades were probably the closest thing to a freakin' ID back in the day... And I won't lie. I done goofed! Though the fabric is supposed to be black like the hat there are gold elements down the middle and the round portion at the bottom. I wasn't paying attention and coloured them black. Shoot me.
  
• The background is comprised of a letter from 1774 (some random shit about a flood) and a hella nice world map (with cute little tricorn-wearing men in the corner).
  
• Song: Sarabane (George Frederich Handel)
  
• Flag: 1606-1801 (English Union Flag)
• 1775-95 in Western Fashion
  

Regency Era (c.1810)

• Out of all these fashion styles, I'll admit the first decades of the 19th century are my favorite (until started getting opulent again). This is the era where the dandy is born. Unlike the fop from the previous century, a dandy bathes until they cry, has human skin and hair, prefers quality over variation, spends seven hours on the perfect tie knot, owns 829 white silk ties, and probably dies of starvation. The shape feels less "soft" compared to the previous outfit, in the sense that there are more angles in these outfits, especially as you go on in the decade. Clothing was generally lighter, more comfortable, and easier to wash. What was considered "quality" clothing wasn't based in how much gold lace embroidery you've got sewn into your bejeweled cravat, but rather cut and tailoring (well I mean if you've got gold clothes that still is a sign that's it's a rich-person outfit, but you know what I mean). Clothing emphasized the natural human form, inspired by classical aesthetics. A white undershirt is worn with a collar tied up with a white cravat (which could be knotted in many different styles). White or other lightly coloured but neutral waistcoats were popular by 1810, ending square and high-waisted. Coats cut away at the front with tails in the back. In this case the cutaway is higher than the waistcoat, so it could still be seen with a closed jacket. Tall, standing collars were popular, and lapels often had an "M" shaped notch between them (which isn't here. Oh well). Breeches are longer and tightly fitted. As in David Bowie as Jareth fitted (Do you know how many portraits I've seen where everything is on display? It's like if men started wearing leggings today - except classy. If it was possible to make leggings classy, that's what's going on here). Sometimes they would be tied instead of buttoned near the bottom to keep it as close-fitting as possible. Jockey boots like above had a turned down cuff of a lighter shade of leather. Little accessories were used to add individuality to outfits. Hats (which were a prototype of the top hat) and walking sticks were common. Men wore their hair short but textured with waves or curls, though long sideburns were also popular (and I realized I like Iggy in sideburns... Oops). 
• A page of John Keats' "To Autumn", and a letter by Percy Shelley. Gotta love those Romantics. Also a couple of late 18th early 19th century floral patterns and a really light illustration of a peacock from one of said Romantic-era poetry books.
  
• Song: Georgiana (Dario Marianelli)
  
• Flag: 1801-Present (Flag of the United Kingdom)
• 1795-1820 in Western Fashion
  

Victorian Era (c.1881)

• As the female set had a dress for going out during the day, the same conditions were applied to the clothing here. By this part of the Victorian Era, men's fashion, at least the more informal outfits for going out, are much more modern and the three piece "ditto suit" wouldn't look too out of place in much of the 20th century apart from a few minor details. These suits are called such because the three main elements of waistcoat, jacket, and trousers all match. Earlier in the century, long frock coats with skirts sometimes reaching knee were commonplace, but by this time the "sack suit" jacket with it's shorter and round shape was more prevalent. If you notice it cuts away in a curve similar to the jackets of the Georgian Era. It was common to only button the top button, so the waistcoat could be seen (despite being the same damn colour and ending higher than the front of the jacket). Trousers were straight and cut near the ankle, so no Jareth the Goblin King drinking games here. Shirt collars were high and starched - sometimes even detachable, but stiff enough to be like a corset for a dude's neck. New neckwear was also coming about, such as the style of tie suited for the high collar. Dark leather shoes still had that pointed look. White kid gloves were mandatory for anyone not physically in their own home, and bowler hats became increasingly popular overcoming the top hat for all but formal events. Gentlemen could carry around a walking stick, but for sure needed to have a nice pocketwatch handy. Hair can still be styled, but the shorter length by this time made it less of a concern compared to earlier decades. However, facial hair was still popular, and once again I think he looks pretty good with sideburns. Actually, now that I look at it again, he kinda looks like Jude Law's version of Watson...
• Look closely and you'll see it's a page from Charlotte Bronte's "Jane Eyre". Also a Victorian Era print of a young lady surrounded by flowers (may have been a lithograph, idk).
  
• Song: The First Waltz (Ilan Eshkeri)
  
• Flag: 1801-Present (Flag of the United Kingdom)
• 1880s in Western Fashion
  

World War II (c.1940)

• Perhaps as a sort of historian's "take that" to the canon design, I chose an army officer's uniform. As a military uniform, naturally it's visibliy different from civilizan clothing, but it's still a reflector of the general clothing attitudes of the time. Especially due to the Great Depression and later the Second World War, clothing took on a more serious look. Colours, especially on men's clothing were much more muted, and straightforeward lines were more prevalient. I think the one thing that really bothers me about 1940's fashion however is the drape suit (or English drape), where the portions above the waist were left loose, the most extreme example turning into those baggy zoot suits (gansters had baggy clothes way before the 90's). And this is why I'm glad this era has so many military uniforms I can draw instead. They were much cleaner cut, since the 40s were wartime and the more material you can save and reuse the better. This uniform in particular is also service dress, which by World War II is seperate from the battle dress actually meant to be worn on the field. Still, it was often worn for walking out or in semi-formal capacity, and I believe still is to this day. For a senior officer in World War II, it wasn't unusual for them to wear only service dress, honestly. Like the canon design, the outfit is primarilly a green shade, though this is more of a subdued olive. The jacket, pants, hat, and tie are all one colour. The collared shirt is also a pale green (a bit paler than what I have based off Himaruya's drawings). The pants are different here, as in the 30's and 40's men's pants had a very straight cut and folded so there was a pleat down the front of each leg. These uniforms also don't have leg cuffs. It's possible to wear boots or puttees with the uniform, but that's mainly for battle dress and even then I can't really recall a British officer wearing boots. Actually, thinking about the accessories I don't know why Himaruya decided to mix and match black and brown leather, but here it's all consistent. Details like the belt buckle, sam browne belt having a pistol holster, visbility of buttons, epaulettes, pocket style, lapels, a few seams/folds, and military decorations are all different. He's also wearing one of those pistol lanyards (y'know, so you don't lose your gun as easily). Hats with different insignia to signify ranking was part of the uniform. Hair is neat and short (so don't draw him with that short spikey mess if you want accuracy). If you look at alot of old pictures from this time as well, you may have also noticed officers holding random sticks that have not identifiable function except to maybe make you look more official. Those are called swagger sticks. And there function is the provide swag. I'm not even joking, that's legit what they're called. 
• How could I not use the famous Keep "Calm and Carry On" poster? It's the epitome of the British stiff upper lip. What other country has that!? It's overlayed with some sort of dispatch.
  
• Song: There'll Always be an England (Vera Lynn)
• Flag: 1801-Present (Flag of the United Kingdom)
• 1930-45 in Fashion
  

The Swingin' Sixties (c.1965)

• Dude, it was tough to choose between sticking with Mod fashion and Rockers, but in the end I chose consitency with what I've already done, so Mod it is. This is still about a year or so before the Edwardian Dandy look became popular in '66, but Mods were still fairly classy, especially compared to their rival Rockers. Their look was tailored and clean. What's fun about Mod fashion is that it's bold and bright, with bold, geometric elements. The 60s saw bright colours and mismatched patterns. Plus I just really like bold-striped blazers. Collared shirts with large neckties were still hanging around, and you could see sweaters or sweater-vests like above worn over that, a different colour than the rest of the outfit. Drainpipe jeans and other related styles of pants were popularized by Audrey Hepburn and are basically similar to the popular skinny jeans today, except the bottom didn't taper to the shape of the lower leg as much so it looks straighter than some of today's pants. Square-toed shoes also became commonplace in the Sixties. Overall the look of a Mod was slim and a sort of simplified but bold gentleman look. One popular hairstyle was the infamous mop top, a straight mid-length haircut inspired by the Beatles. Iggy's is a little messed up, but I enjoy drawing his eyebrows and I didn't want to lose that. Also, since I'm still sore about not having a cute portable record player here's one similar to what my dad had back in the day. The totally looked like suitcases. And of course you've got to have some vinyl to go with that so nondisclosed records it is.
  
• Mods vs Rockers and a more difficult to see article on The Beatles are the two newspaper articles covered in one of those geometric patterns they seemed to love so much back then.
  
• Song: All Day and All of the Night (The Kinks)
• Flag: 1801-Present (Flag of the United Kingdom)
• 1960s in Fashion
  

Contemporary

• I won't lie, because looking back I feel a little conflicted about the dress and and jacket I put on fem!England, I was more than a little obsessed on pandering to my own tastes. Which apparantly make him look like the Doctor. Suspenders (though it's hard to see and he's wearing them down), bowtie, long jacket... It had to be done. But yea, kinda classy, kinda edgy, or something like that. Idk, I just have fun with the contemporary outfits and try to match a mix of what works for the character but is still in line with what I see on their street fashions. Also he has an umbrella because sitting here on this side of the pond you Brits always seem to have lousy weather. Also, did I mention that I like to draw these eyebrows?
• Since I'm super hipster there's some bokeh and a quote from Harry Potter, the typography by Sanlena.
  
• Song: What Kind Of Man (Florence + the Machine)
• Flag: 1801-Present (Flag of the United Kingdom)
• 2010s in Fashion